Sunday, 02 May 2010 Adventure Travel: Cape York Expedition
In August-September 2009, six adventurers
came together for a three-week 900 km sailing and sea-kayaking adventure
through the Great Barrier Reef in Far North Queensland - but an adventure with
a difference! Some members of the group had, in 2005, sailed
from Hinchinbrook Island up to Cooktown in Hobiecats (in quite challenging
weather). The logistics of getting the boats and gear from Sydney up to FNQ in
shipping containers proved to be difficult and expensive, however, and this
gave birth to the idea of using inflatable and collapsible boats for the 2009
northern leg - up to Thursday Island. Three of the expeditioners decided on
inflatable sea kayaks (a double and a single), and, to take advantage of the
south-easterly trade winds that prevail in the northern winter, they
successfully trialed 2-metre kite sails, which provided higher average boat
speed and some relief for the paddlers. Two
members of the party conducted intensive research into possible design concepts
and materials for a 'mother ship' - to be an 18 foot catamaran which could be
dismantled to a few portable bags for low cost transport. The additional specs
were that it should be as light as possible; be capable of carrying (if necessary) all the expedition
members plus all their gear, food and water; and that it should be able to sail upwind in the event of a possible
kayak rescue. Initially it was intended that the boats
would be transported by air as accompanied baggage, but when Qantas changed its
domestic baggage charging from a piece basis to weight early in 2009, the
back-loading rate on a furniture van became the cheapest transport to FNQ. In only six months we had designed,
constructed and sailed a seaworthy expedition boat. The two pontoons were fabricated in Sydney
- 5.7 m long x 0.6 m diameter Hypalon tubes, tapering up at the bow and blunt
at the stern. A frame of stringers, cross-beams and
pontoon cradles was constructed from 50 mm x 4 mm 6106-T6 aluminium tubing, and
rolled bar and rod, all selected for stiffness and corrosion resistance, with
section lengths not exceeding 2.5 metres. The joints were proprietary 'Keelite'
aluminium fittings from the UK.
A centrebox assembly was welded up from
some scrap aluminium checker-plate and was mounted centrally below the mast-step,
secured by four opposing 'Strongropes'. The single centre-board was cut from 19
mm marine ply and surfaced with carbon fibre-reinforced epoxy resin for maximum
stiffness and impact strength. A single rudder was similarly fabricated and
fitted to a Hobiecat rudder-box and tiller assembly, mounted centrally at the
stern. The
fore and aft trampolines were stitched locally from conventional plastic mesh.
The 20 foot mast, boom and spinnaker pole were made from purchased 2 mm thick
aluminium sections used by the 125 and Pacer dinghy classes, but with the much
lighter 'Strongrope' being used in place of the conventional stainless steel
stays.
To complete the rig a set of 125 dinghy
sails were fitted, and a set of strong canvas or shade-cloth bags for transport
were either stitched up or purchased.
While the kayakers and sailors were working
on the skills and endurance needed, attention turned to detailed trip planning.
A mix of digital marine maps, tidal data and Google Earth was used to generate
a sailing and camping plan; a provisions list was prepared; water needs were
assessed; tools and spares were assembled; gear transport and EPIRB hire were
arranged; advance airline bookings were made; and various authorities were
notified.
The trip itself was a blast! Unlike our
2005 experience, the weather was generally mild, and the wind-strength was
generally an ideal 15-20 knots, with maximum wave heights a comfortable 2-3
metres.
Our overnight camp spots comprised a
wonderful variety of uninhabited coral islands and reefs, interspersed with
isolated mainland beaches. Daily legs were typically 20-30 nautical miles
(37-56 km), with navigation across some very wide expanses of sea proving to be
quite precise, with the help of the excellent maps, a compass and a programmed GPS.
The wind had a more pronounced easterly
tendency than we had expected, and the kayakers frequently hitched themselves
to the Cat for a tow (or came aboard for the occasional long lunch) when the
wind direction was unsuitable for the kite sails.
Water proved not to be a problem, with some
excellent sweet water sources refilling our 10-litre wine bladders in good
time. Likewise, our dehydrated rations were supplemented with some very fresh
rock oysters and some great catches from the stern of the Cat of tuna, mackerel
and trevally, which we barbecued in our usual evening camp fire on the beach.
Happily the crocodiles left us alone,
although their presence on some of the beaches below our small tents was
occasionally evident. Similarly, we had no problems with sharks, or with sharp
coral and oyster shell - although we maintained a very close watch when sailing
in shallow water, and when swimming.
The wildlife and the scenery was stunning,
with large numbers of turtles and a variety of fish and bird-life, the
occasional dugong, and flying fish fleeing underwater predators.
For much of the trip we had the Great
Barrier Reef and its islands and beaches to ourselves. It was always a
highlight however when we met kindred souls,
- such as when we spent a day and a night exchanging opinions and
stories with Dave Glasheen on his island (Dave makes the best ice-cold beer in
the entire world); and where a small crew from a visiting trawler joined us to
swap yarns and to cook up the best barbecued prawns we'd ever tasted; and with
Norm and Dawn, on board their boat one evening for a birthday celebration and a
night of rum and Coke, guitars, harmonica and folk singing under the stars and
a full moon, and on another occasion, near the end of out trip, at the end of a
tow-line along which came - more ice-cold rum and Coke!
This was a truly memorable expedition -
accessible to any similar group with the necessary sense of adventure and with
a reverence and respect for Australia's remote and largely unspoilt marine
environment in our north.
Our boat has since returned to Sydney without a
scratch and is currently awaiting its next owner, who we are sure will have as
much fun with it as we have had. (Any group who might be interested in becoming
the Cat's next joint owner, with a view to undertaking a similar adventure, is
welcome to contact Alan at abarlee@bigpond.net.au, who would be pleased to
share the planning details and the local knowledge gained during this once-in-a-lifetime experience).
In August-September 2009, six adventurers
